Flat water pond exhibit
Local people take a lot of pride in their history and their community!
from L'Anse aux Meadows to La Scie - Twillingate - Fogo Island
Day 17…July 30 Departing Pistolet campground, we now had to retrace our steps back down the peninsula on the only road, towards Gros Morne and Deer Lake. On the way down we stopped briefly at Arches Provincial Park on the coast.
We then decided to just drive the rest of the way directly to Deer Lake, which would get us back on the TransCanada Hwy 1 going east. Then we'd turn left and head north on the 410 up to LaScie (the saw). It's an old French fishing town dating back to the 1800's. We might see some icebergs there, but you never know.
Arriving later in the afternoon just before sunset at LaScie, we found the Island Cove Park Camp. It's been run by the town for some time, costs 10$ per night, is clean and tidy with laundry and great views.
Great views from the campsite that is. Especially for us at cliff's edge! That night, there were only two other campers there. People miss a lot if they don't go off the beaten path to such places.
Sitting around camp we enjoyed distant whale spouts, a bbq meal, wine and sunset. This is one of Jackie's top sites for the trip!
Day 18…At our campsite on yet another sunny morning we did laundry and took a hike to the overlook on the hill above. That night we had dinner in town at "our Place" restaurant.
On the strength of recent food energy, Jackie decided to go down the trail to the beach to collect firewood. We also managed to fly a kite way up high over the cliffs.
Day 19 August 1…Breakfast a short walk down the road at the Tea Room/museum and as home-cooked by the owner, it was excellent and filling.
Now it's off to Twillingate hopefully to go on an iceberg cruise., booked today, for tomorrow.
As you can see on the map, it's a long curved route down from LaScie, through Grand Falls-Windsor, then up north again to Dildo Run campground and Twillingate.
By the time we got down the 410 to the TransCanada it was absolutely pouring in torrents. This was the first time of the trip (20 days in) that it just keep coming down, for hours.
The highway 1 is the only northern transit across The Rock, and so it's just clogged with heavy transport trucks blasting along.
Not being a rich province, there's not enough money for roads, so the tar has worn down forming two long running canals of flowing water that easily causes hydro-planing- like everywhere else it seems, people just blast along oblivious to the danger a second away.
With a heavier vehicle, we are stable with the speed well below the speed limit.
Finally, at 7:30 we arrive at Dildo Run Provincial park, it's still raining, so we tuck in with popcorn and a couple of good books.
Day 20… After sleeping in, we enjoy breakfast at the Crow's Nest Café in Twillingate - coffee,Cod chowder and scones. All very good.
Sadly, the iceberg run was cancelled on account of high seas, so we decided to take a quick trip by ferry to Fogo Island, departing from Farewell dock.
Earlier on the road we had met a traveling lady from Quebec, and Jackie had more of a chance to talk with her during the ferry crossing.
A 45 min ferry trip brings us there.
We enjoyed a short climb to Brimstone Head lookout, which is right next to a very small field camping area that would be perfect for a next trip.
Getting near day's end we got to the ferry early to be sure of getting on the last trip of the day, and after getting back to the campsite, were looking forward to tomorrow's iceberg trip with "iceberg Man".
The FOGO Island FIFO Ferry (just like Accounting) = First In First Out
Day 21… A beautiful sunny day with moderate to warm temperatures.
But the icebergs have gone due to the very warm weather this summer
, and no more tours 'cause there's nothin' to see. Oh well…
We decide to keep moving and head for Terra Nova National Park, by way of a circular route on 331 and 330 to Cape Freels, thence the 320 going south later in the day, to arrive at terra Nova National park at 5:30
.
Arriving at Terra Nova Newman Sound campground is a culture shock.
I could hardly believe my eyes.
It had little to do with having been out in the wild for days,
and everything to do with how awful a "People-last" philosophy of camping can be.
All campsites are simply rough cut gravel with only a small verge of grass on them.
A Gravel Hardscape worthy of an impoverished inner city allotment park, wedged tightly among trees.
You and the young kids **Really** want to have a fire?
Hop to it. Carry all your stuff and walk 100 meters to the "community fire rings" down a rough gravel road.
And these community campfire rings?
"Come on kids--they should be really great. Let's go and meet other people there! "
Just off the gravel road, 50 meters downwind of the multi-lane RV dump station sewage pits. What a pit.
"That's awful. Maybe the next one down the sharp gravel highway is better...
I guess not.
Perhaps Parks Canada should hold an executive meeting there to discuss it.
No campfires allowed at sites. Forget about cooking something.
No fire rings in sight.
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Personally, I'm ashamed that visitors to Canada get subjected to this , at all, never mind the high campsite fees.
In this campground, I get the sense that environmental regulations and gravel road building entirely outrank PEOPLE.
Also, all Newfoundlanders deserve better.
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Day 22…Today we're off early for a Zodiac boat whale watching tour in Newman Sound.
It was perfect under sunny skies- whales spouting, puffins flying, nudging into sea caves and generally having a great time with good crew and friendly passengers.
After our tour, we took the "Coastal Trail" starting near the ranger building. Into the trees, thick and close.
No coastline to be seem except a 50 feet bit at the point we decided to turn around after a few kilometers.
Time to go to some other place.
So we got a reservation by good luck at the Malady Head campsite a few miles down the road.
Gravel sites again, and one distant comfort station best accessed by a car on gravel roads.
This campground did have site fire pits, not one community fire ring at the dumping station like Newman.
Newman Sound would've been the kind of campground Newman of Seinfeld fame would've cunningly schemed to design and build.
Going uphill in heavy rain, traffic coming, a truck overtakes us, and we're going 70 km/hr navigating the worn water canals in the road...
